Behold, the "universal" perch holder. Two mounted to walls with white glue can accommodate a variety of perch diameters, and the height of the perch will only vary an inch or two. Perches can even be different diameters at opposite ends!
My philosophy is, install something which makes removal, replacement, and cleaning of perches as easy and simple as possible because anything that's a hassle is going to eventually compromise your birds' health. Period.
Please note, the other side holder (not shown) has no top bar, as it'll block perches from being lowered down into the holder.
60 degrees is best. Use a thin block of balsa at the end lowered in last to help it slide down smoothly and wedge in tight between the two holders.
You can remove perch holders with boiling water which melts white glue on contact. This system is only good in totally dry aviaries, otherwise use another non toxic glue that's waterproof. White glue can stand up to washing, but not extended wet from rain.
Note: Don't use toxic glues if you have birds that can nibble wood. Also, don't use nails, screws or any metal parts as they can maim or injure birds if they become exposed. There are no metal parts here. The perch is mainly supported by the pressure between the walls, and the very tight fit. Again, a sheet of balsa helps slide the last end of the perch down, yet become very snug. The V grooves are mostly providing secondary support, and should not be relied on entirely to support a perch. Loose perches can rotate, causing injury to birds. It is important to have snuggly nestled perches. Gently tap the perch down to rest in the V, being careful not to damage the V support.
Anyway, these have worked well for me and I've got a big heavy Crow diving, leaping, jumping, and prancing on her perches from two meters up in the air all day long, pounding away, and never have had a perch failure.
My philosophy is, install something which makes removal, replacement, and cleaning of perches as easy and simple as possible because anything that's a hassle is going to eventually compromise your birds' health. Period.
Please note, the other side holder (not shown) has no top bar, as it'll block perches from being lowered down into the holder.
60 degrees is best. Use a thin block of balsa at the end lowered in last to help it slide down smoothly and wedge in tight between the two holders.
You can remove perch holders with boiling water which melts white glue on contact. This system is only good in totally dry aviaries, otherwise use another non toxic glue that's waterproof. White glue can stand up to washing, but not extended wet from rain.
Note: Don't use toxic glues if you have birds that can nibble wood. Also, don't use nails, screws or any metal parts as they can maim or injure birds if they become exposed. There are no metal parts here. The perch is mainly supported by the pressure between the walls, and the very tight fit. Again, a sheet of balsa helps slide the last end of the perch down, yet become very snug. The V grooves are mostly providing secondary support, and should not be relied on entirely to support a perch. Loose perches can rotate, causing injury to birds. It is important to have snuggly nestled perches. Gently tap the perch down to rest in the V, being careful not to damage the V support.
Anyway, these have worked well for me and I've got a big heavy Crow diving, leaping, jumping, and prancing on her perches from two meters up in the air all day long, pounding away, and never have had a perch failure.
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